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How much of Earth's surface is
covered by oceans?
Approximately 71% of the planet is covered by oceans. There are three
major oceans (Indian, Pacific, Atlantic) that are connected along their
southern margins by the Southern Ocean circling Antarctica.
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How does the depth of the oceans
vary?
The average depth of the ocean floor is nearly 4 km and a maximum
depth of 11 km has been recorded along the Mariana Trench
in the western Pacific Ocean. Four principal depth zones can be
identified ranging from the shallow shelf along the continental margins
(~100s meters), to the near horizontal floor of the abyssal plain (4-5
km), rising to the crest of the oceanic ridge (~3 km), and descending to
the narrow depths of the oceanic trenches (7-11 km).
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What factors control variations in
the salinity of the oceans?
Seawater contains dissolved salts. The concentration of salt in
seawater is salinity. Salinity is measured in parts per thousand (ppt; 1
ppt = 0.1%, 10 ppt = 1%) of salt in water. Salinity varies depending on
temperature and the mixing action of ocean currents. Salinity
is higher at low latitudes because high temperatures at these locations
promote evaporation which removes water but leaves the salt it contains
behind. However, the mixing action of ocean currents ensures a consistent
salinity range of 33 to 37 parts per thousand for much of the open ocean.
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Where are salinity values highest
and lowest?
Salinity values are most extreme in restricted ocean basins where
the effects of evaporation or stream inflow are exaggerated. Salinity
values of over 40 ppt occur in the narrow tropical Red Sea basin between
north Africa and the Arabian peninsula. Salinity is lower at high
latitudes because of the lack of evaporation, high precipitation, and
the influx of freshwater from melting ice sheets. Salinity values of
less than 10 ppt are recorded from the Baltic Sea in northern Europe.
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How does salinity change with
depth?
Salinity increases with depth in the restricted northern ocean
waters (Arctic Ocean) but decreases slightly with depth in the tropical
open ocean. Salinity is much more consistent at depth (2 km) below the
halocline.
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What factors control the
temperature of the oceans?
Solar radiation is distributed over a wider area
and must penetrate a greater thickness of atmosphere at the poles,
reducing the amount of solar energy reaching Earth's surface.
Consequently, ocean temperatures are greater near the equator. The
highest ocean temperatures (~27oC) are present along the
equator and temperatures decrease symmetrically to the north and south
approaching 0oC at high latitudes.
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How does
temperature vary with depth?
Temperature decreases significantly with depth. The effects
insolation and the surface mixing of currents diminish with depth.
Temperature declines steadily to a depth of approximately 1,000 meters.
Deeper waters have a uniform temperature of 1 to 2oC.
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What controls the
direction of ocean currents?
Winds generated by atmospheric circulation patterns represent the
principal control on ocean currents but the distribution of continents
and the Coriolis effect also affect currents. Circulation patterns known as
gyres control currents in the open oceans. Currents form a clockwise
pattern in gyres of the Northern Hemisphere and a counterclockwise
pattern south of the equator.
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Which currents are
important in global climate?
Although all currents contribute to global climate patterns, the
western boundary currents such as the Gulf Stream and Brazil
currents have an especially significant role as they transport warm
tropical waters to higher latitudes.
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What is the
Coriolis effect?
The Coriolis effect represents the deflection of currents to the
right of their course in the Northern Hemisphere and to the left of
their course in the Southern Hemisphere. The Coriolis effect results
from the contrast in Earth's rotation velocity with latitude.
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What is
thermohaline circulation?
Thermohaline circulation occurs in deeper ocean waters and is driven by
density contrasts related to differences in water temperature and
salinity. Thermohaline circulation drives the global conveyer belt that
causes surface waters to sink in the northern Atlantic Ocean and sends
cold, deep currents through the world's oceans before upwelling in the
northern Pacific and Indian Oceans.
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What factors influence
the development of coastal landforms?
The coastline is a dynamic environment that advances or retreats
depending upon the balance between the supply of sediment and the
material removed by wave erosion. Seasonal variations in stream flow and
storm activity affect the volume of sediment supplied to the coast and
the rate of erosion. Climate cycles that result in increasing or
decreasing sea levels will have long-term effects measured in decades or
centuries. Finally, tectonic cycles measured in hundreds or thousands of
years may continually revitalize rugged coastlines by periodic uplifts.
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How does water move
in waves?
The waveform is a shape that moves across the open ocean but the
water particles don't move with the wave but instead trace out a
circular path while remaining essentially in place.
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What happens when
waves approach the coast?
Material is eroded and redeposited by turbulent flow that occurs
in the surf zone as waves break along the shoreline. Wave refraction
results in wave action being concentrated on headlands. Deposition
occurs in the calmer waters of sheltered bays.
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Where does coastal
erosion occur?
Coastal erosion occurs where erosion by wave action is not
balanced by local deposition of the eroded material and the supply of
sediment from streams. Erosion exceeds deposition, resulting in a loss
of shoreline, along most of the U.S. coastline.
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What is a longshore
current?
A longshore current is generated when waves strike the coast at
an angle. The current forms in the surf zone and transports sediment
laterally along the shoreline. Longshore currents can result in the
formation of characteristic depositional landforms parallel to the
coastline.
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What is the sediment
budget?
The sediment budget is the balance between material added to the
shore by deposition and the material removed by erosion. The
construction of dams will reduce the volume of sediment reaching the
coast. Drought conditions may also reduce streamflow and thus diminish
sediment transported to the shore by streams. Coastal development may
result in the construction of structures designed to reduce erosion
(e.g., breakwaters, seawalls) or to control the local depositional
patterns to prevent infilling of navigation channels (jetties).
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Why are shoreline
protection structures regarded as a mixed blessing?
Seawalls, groins, and breakwaters act to prevent erosion and/or
encourage deposition. However, structures built to protect coastlines
may prevent erosion of part of the shoreline but can result in
accelerated erosion elsewhere. Artificial beach nourishment occurs when
sand is dredged and pumped onto the beach from offshore but
has a limited life span unless the processes that caused the original
erosion are stopped.