Glossary

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

alteration Any changes made by a tailor to improve the fit of a garment, common with men's suits.

analogous color scheme Describes an outfit or display in which the colors are analogous, or next to each other on the color wheel.

antistatic A fabric finish that helps prevent static electricity.

apparel Clothing, including dresses, coats, suits, and sportswear.

arch length The measurement of a person's foot from the back of the heel to the ball of the foot.

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bal A laced shoe with stitching across the vamp, such as a saddle shoe.

basic stock Merchandise for which consumer demand does not change much, such as men's undershirts and socks.

batiste A fine, plain weave, thin fabric often made of cotton, often used for baby clothes or clothing linings.

bleach A substance that is used to remove the color from fabric.

blend Describes cloth woven or knitted from yarn or thread made of two or more kinds of fibers.

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blucher A laced shoe in which the tongue is part of the vamp, such as a wingtip.

bonding A method for making fabric in which fibers are joined by adhesive.

Brannock device A device used to measure a person's shoe size, including width.

breathe Allow air and moisture to pass through.

broad and shallow Describes a common stock selection at the beginning of a season, with a small number of items in each of many styles and colors available.

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brush A method for raising the fibers in a fabric by brushing it to give it a fuzzy appearance.

bunting bag A thick, warm garment for a baby that is shaped like a bag to cover the baby's body and legs, with sealed sleeves to cover the baby's arms and hands, and usually a hood.

buyer A representative of a retail store who places orders for products that will be sold in the store, usually by traveling to manufacturers' showrooms.

calendar A process for giving fabric a shiny appearance, by making the surface flatter and smoother.

carding A process that straightens natural fibers so they can be spun.

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cashmere An exceptionally soft yarn made from a particular kind of wool.

cavalry twill A closely woven fabric made with distinct slanted lines in the texture.

challis A lightweight woven fabric, usually with a small floral design, often used for pajamas, dresses, and blouses.

chambray A woven cotton fabric with a plain weave and a frosted appearance.

cheviot A loosely-woven worsted, often with a herringbone pattern.

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chiffon A sheer woven fabric made of silk or rayon that is very soft and lightweight, and is often used for formal dresses.

chino A soft, smooth, slightly shiny woven fabric usually made from cotton or cotton blend, and used for making pants.

classic Describes clothing or accessories that do not go out of fashion, such as pearls or cardigan sweaters.

collar stays Small pieces of plastic sewn inside a collar to ensure that it lays flat against a man's collarbone.

combing A second process in producing natural fibers that removes very short fibers, leaving longer, stronger fibers that will produce high-quality fabrics.

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complimentary color scheme Describes an outfit or display in which the colors are complimentary, or opposite each other on the color wheel.

corduroy A thick woven fabric with a raised pile running lengthwise down the fabric; often used for pants or jackets.

cotton The product of the cotton plant, the fibers of which are carded, sometimes combed, and spun into yarn.

counter A stiff piece in the back portion of a shoe, between the outside and lining, that strengthens the shoe and helps it fit snugly around the heel.

couture Fashion; the term for the clothing that designers create for an exclusive market of individual customers and exclusive boutiques that will be made to each customer's measurements.

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covert A medium-weight twill fabric often used for raincoats, with a mottled appearance.

crease resistance A fabric finish often used with linen and cotton to help the fabric resist wrinkles and creases.

crepe A woven fabric with a crinkled or grained appearance.

denim A strong cotton fabric used for making jeans, usually yarn-dyed blue.

double-knit A firm knit fabric with reduced stretch made with two sets of needles.

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drop The difference between a man's chest and waist measurements.

dye To add color to fabric.

emboss A technique for adding a three-dimensional design to fabric.

face-out A display rack for clothing that faces out from the wall, showing the entire front of the item.

fad A very short-lived trend, usually appealing to a narrow market.

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fashion The term for what people are wearing, the prevailing style in an area or with a specific group of people.

fashion goods Merchandise for which demand changes from season to season and year to year.

felting A method for creating fabric by using heat, moisture, and pressure, rather than weaving or knitting.

filament yarn Yarn created by twisting long filament strands together to create a smooth, lustrous yarn.

filling Horizontal fibers in fabric; also called weft or woof.

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filling knit A knit created using only a single thread; also known as weft knit.

flame-retardant A fabric finish that makes fabric resist catching fire and burn more slowly if ignited.

gabardine A particular woven fabric with a distinct twill line and a clear finish, often made of wool and used for suits and raincoats.

hand The feel of a fabric.

haute couture High fashion; the most exclusive designs, often unique pieces created for individual customers.

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heel breast The front part of the heel of a shoe.

heel lift A protective cap or pad, usually rubber, attached to the bottom of the heel of a shoe.

heel-to-toe measurement The measurement from the back of a person's heel to the tip of his or her longest toe.

high fashion Same as haute couture; the most exclusive designs, often unique pieces created for individual customers.

insole The upper part of the sole of a shoe, to which the upper part of the shoe is attached.

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insulating A fabric finish that adds warmth or coolness.

jacquard A weave in which a design is woven into the fabric; tapestry and brocade.

jersey A stretchy knitted fabric that is plain, without a distinct rib, and is used widely for dresses, T-shirts, and children's clothes.

kimono A long, robe-like sleeping garment for an infant that closes down the front with snaps or ties.

knit A stretchy fabric formed by looping yarns together, often to create patterns either with the use of different color yarns, or by different knitting techniques that create cables and other designs.

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knock-off A copy of a designer garment, mass produced in less expensive fabrics.

lace A decorative fabric made by knotting or twisting threads that is used as decoration on dresses, lingerie, and handkerchiefs.

layette Clothing and other items such as bibs and receiving blankets that a newborn baby will need.

leno An open, lacy weave in which the filling yarn is woven through figure eights made out of warp fibers; gauze.

licensee A company that makes a product under a designer's name and pays the designer for the design, packaging, and promotional ideas.

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line An assortment of designs offered by one designer or manufacturer.

line linen Yarn that is made from only the long fibers of the flax plant.

linen Yarn or fabric processed from the flax plant.

loom A machine that weaves fabric by intertwining lengthwise yarns (warp) with horizontal yarns (woof, weft, or filling).

man-made fiber Any fiber created by people through artificial processes, usually by pushing liquid through tiny holes in a spinnerette to create long, thin fibers; nylon, polyester, etc.

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manufacturer representative An employee of a manufacturer whose job it is to sell the manufacturer's products to retail buyers.

market Refers to a central area where many manufacturers will have their showrooms; also called a garment district.

mass fashion Widely accepted fashions sold in mass quantities through retail stores, often at low prices.

mercerizing A process that makes fabric shinier.

mildew-resistant A fabric finish that prevents mildew.

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moiré A watermark sort of pattern on fabric.

monochromatic color scheme Describes an outfit or display in which everything is the same color or hue.

moth resistant A fabric finish that makes wool unappetizing to moths.

narrow and deep Describes a common stock plan in the peak of a season, with a large number of the top-selling items in the most popular colors available.

natural fibers Fibers that were not created by people, such as cotton, linen, wool, and silk.

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natural shoulders In a suit, soft shoulders with minimum shoulder padding.

off-shore production Manufacture of clothing or accessories in a foreign country to take advantage of lower labor costs.

organdy A plain woven fabric that is fine and sheer, with a crisp finish, often used for dresses.

outerwear Coats and jackets.

oxford A low-cut shoe that laces up in one to six pairs of eyelets.

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permanent press Describes fabric that keeps its creases after washing and drying, and does not need to be ironed.

piece dye To dye an entire piece of fabric.

pile weave A weave created with three sets of yarns, one of which creates a texture in the fabric; corduroy, velvet, and terrycloth.

pinafore A sleeveless garment that looks like an apron, usually worn by young girls.

placket The opening in the cuff or neck of a garment that creates a larger opening for ease in dressing, and can be buttoned closed.

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plain weave A basic weave in which each filling strand goes over and under each warp strand once.

ply Describes the number of strands twisted together to make a yarn.

points The distance between the tip of a collar and the neckband on a man's shirt.

poplin A smooth, thin, lustrous fabric, usually made of cotton and used for making shirts.

poromeric A synthetic material made to look like leather, but with the ability to "breathe."

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preshrunk Describes fabric that may shrink up to 3 percent; same as shrunk.

prêt-a-porter Clothing by designers that will be sold in retail stores, without custom tailoring; also known as ready-to-wear.

private label Clothing that is created by a retailer and belongs exclusively to that retailer.

quarter The back portion of the upper part of a shoe.

ready-to-wear Clothing that is made to fit standard sizes and can be purchased in retail stores; also known as prêt-a-porter.

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reeled silk Long, smooth silk fibers from unbroken cocoons; the finest grade of silk.

resident buying office A company, located in a major fashion center, where a buyer can learn about the latest fashion trends, new merchandise available, and deliveries.

rise The measurement from crotch to waist.

rounder A round display rack for clothing.

Sanforized Describes fabric that is guaranteed not to shrink more than 1 percent.

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satin A soft fabric that is very shiny, often used for formal dresses and men's evening wear, often made from silk or rayon.

satin weave A weave in which the filling fibers go over many warp fibers before going under a warp fiber, creating the illusion that the fibers are floating, and creating fabric that is very shiny but easily snagged.

seersucker A lightweight woven fabric with raised stripes running vertically, often used for making shirts, shorts, and men's summer suits.

self-belt A belt made out of the same material as the outfit it is intended to be worn with.

serge A twill fabric used for making suits that has a distinct diagonal rib running across the fabric.

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shadow box A small case, enclosed in glass, built into the wall and used for merchandise display.

shank A part of a shoe inserted between the sole and insole that adds rigidity to the shoe.

shirttail bottom The bottom of a shirt that is shorter at the seams and longer at the center in front and back.

side leather Refers to all cowhides; the leather that is produced from a whole cowhide cut down the middle into two sides.

silk The fibers spun by silk worms.

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singe A process for removing fuzz from fabric and making it smoother.

sizing A fabric finish that adds weight, stiffness, and firmness.

sleeper A one-piece sleeping suit for an infant or toddler that covers the feet.

sleeping gown A sleeping garment for an infant which looks like a bag with sleeves, with cuffs that can be folded over a baby's hands and a drawstring bottom that covers the baby's feet.

solution dye To dye man-made fabric as it is being made.

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spinnerette The machine that creates man-made fibers out of liquid by forcing it through tiny holes.

split leather The lower layer of a thick cowhide that has been split, sometimes with an artificial grain stamped on it to imitate top grain leather.

spread The distance between the tips of a collar on a shirt.

spun silk Silk made from broken cocoons and short fibers; feels more like cotton.

spun yarn Yarn created by twisting together short man-made fibers, often fuzzy and warm.

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stock dye To dye loose fibers before they are spun into yarn or made into fabric.

stock plan A report of the products a buyer should purchase for a store, including basic stock and fashion goods.

style The characteristics of a piece of clothing, such as fabric, silhouette, and details, that differentiate it from others.

terry cloth A woven cloth (usually cotton) used for making bathrobes and towels, with small loops on one or both sides to give it a soft, cushy feel.

texturized yarn Yarn made from filaments, but with a rougher texture; often warm and resistant to pilling.

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throat The top edge of the vamp of a shoe, in front of the instep.

toe box The front area of the shoe that holds the toes.

tongue A piece of leather or rubber that lies under the laces of a laced shoe and is attached to the shoe's throat.

top grain leather The finest, strongest leather, taken from the top layer of the leather (the hair side).

topline The top edge of the upper part of a shoe.

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tow linen Linen yarn that is made from the long and short fibers of the flax plant.

tropical worsted A lightweight worsted fabric for making men's warm-weather suits.

tweed A thick, coarsely woven wool fabric used for making men's jackets, often in a herringbone or uneven pattern.

twill weave A weave in which the filling strand goes over and under several warp strands, creating diagonal ridges across the fabric.

vamp The front part of the upper part of a shoe.

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vertical retailer A company that designs, produces, and sells its own products, without using middlemen or wholesalers.

vignette A merchandise display that shows how merchandise looks in use.

warp The lengthwise fibers in fabric.

warp knit A knit created with the use of several yarns and several needles.

water-repellant Describes fabric that sheds water but still breathes.

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waterproof Describes fabric that is completely resistant to water and does not breathe.

weave To intertwine fibers on a loom.

weft Horizontal fibers in fabric; also called woof or filling.

weft knit A knit created using only a single thread; also known as filling knit.

weighting A fabric finish that adds weight and stiffness.

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whipcord A twill woven worsted fabric with a diagonally ribbed surface.

woof Horizontal fibers in fabric; also called weft or filling.

wool Yarn or fabric created from the fibers of the fleece of sheep.

Wool Labeling Act A federal law that requires proper labeling of textiles.

woolens Yarn or fabric made from wool fibers that have been carded, leaving the long and short fibers to create a fuzzy fabric that is very warm.

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worsted wool Yarn or fabric made from wool fibers that have been carded and combed to create a firmer, more durable yarn that holds a crease well.

yarn A continuous thread created by twisting fibers together, either loosely or tightly.

yarn dye To die yard before it is made into cloth.

yoke The piece of fabric at the back and top of a shirt that stretches from shoulder to shoulder, ensuring the shirt fits smoothly across the shoulder and back.

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